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Airbox Filter
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A tune up is a simple task that almost anyone can do. This will make your vehicle more fuel efficient. This applies for any motorized vehicle. The filters are a good place to start. Depending how often you do a tune up will affect how much of an improvement that you will see. Most mechanics suggest a tune up by 60,000 miles.

The engine air filter can be your first tune up item. The air filter is located over a carburetor on older cars. The air filter is in the airbox on fuel injected motors. The fuel filter can be located anywhere between your engine and the fuel tank and should also be replaced. If the fuel filter is clogged it can make your engine run lean.

Many times if your check engine light has been on it is due to the o2 sensor not working correctly. This is normally only replaced when it fails but usually will not last long anyways. Now is also a good time to have your transmission filter replaced. If the transmission filter has alot of miles on it the transmission could be slipping.

Replacing this may need to be done by a mechanic, unless you feel comfortable enough to it. The filter is usually found under the transmission pan. The transmission filter will usually pull straight down and out. Unless you have the scarce, screw on filter like saturns.

The ignition system is also very important and requires attention. The spark plug wires will usually wear out even faster than the 60,000 mile tune up. Try half that mileage and it will save you money and troubles. Spark plug wires wear out and lose resistance, making the car run rough and use more fuel. While replacing the spark plug wires it is also a good idea to replace the distributor cap and rotor.

The engine's distributor cap will come off easy, usually with two screws. It may be easiest to remove the distributor cap first to keep the wires running to the correct spark plug. When the cap is removed, the rotor will be located under it and usually has a push in tab to release it. Reinstall the new distributer cap and proceed to remove one spark plug wire only.

Now it is time to replace the spark plugs. The spark plugs will usually come out with a 5/8" or 13/16" socket. Replace the spark plug with a new compatible plug. Check the gap with a feeler gauge and tap on or pry the electrode back in until you have the gap the size it needs to be. Most engines run the spark plug gap between .030" and .045" depending on the vehicle.

Now refer to the wire set up on the old distributor cap. Trace the one wire back to where it needs to be on the new cap. Do this to all the wire and plugs so that they can't be mixed up. The ignition timing should also be checked by connecting a timing light to #1 spark plug wire. The timing setting should be around 8 to 12 degrees advanced or zero on newer cars.

The actual timing spec, along with the spark plug gap, will be displayed under the hood on a tag. Also if excessive oil was found in the air filter, you should replace the PCV (positive crankcase valve) which will be usually be found in the head, valve cover or air cleaner/box. If there is no oil in the air filter then the PCV valve is o.k. This will return your car to the factory oem specs and will probably improve the power, smoothness and fuel economy.

Jerry Lemke is the author of http://www.freeengineinfo.com A site for information for repair and modification of various vehicles.

Mercedes Cold Air Intake—when Sucking Air for Power Doesn't Suck at All

It sure is a beautiful sight to see a workhorse of a Mercedes engine. With a well-oiled machine burning the air-fuel mixture the needed power to rev up the vehicle, Merc pundits and aficionados alike will get a field day experience the power of this German steed.

But in order to up the ante, more power is needed to further take the engine to greater heights. Since cleaner and denser air is needed to mix with fuel for combustion, the Mercedes cold air intake plays a vital role in order to make an upgrade.

Colder and denser air is needed for a more efficient combustion. And this combustion produces more power for the engine to pack on in the cylinder. The Mercedes cold air intake functions as a feeder of this air for a more power-inducing combustion process in the engine.

This would even be more efficient as the air filter (a multi-layer cotton gauze with urethane body, then through a smooth aluminum duct to reduce the drag losses in the airflow which is excellent filtration and great power-boosting intake charge) is relocated outside the engine compartment. Simultaneously, is saves on fuel mileage. While sucking in cooler air form the outside to the engine, the hot underhood air is ingested by the factory systems. Extensive temperature testing was conducted to locate the air filter in the coolest area of the engine compartment to get the lowest results in inlet temperature.

Cold air intake may come in plastic, metal, rubber (silicone) or composite materials (fiberglass, carbon fiber or Kevlar) in composition. Since it is only for a limited for the air to be remained inside the intake tubing, the materials often do not impact a kit's ability to deliver cool air. Basic cold air intake replaces the stock airbox with a short metal or plastic tube leading to a conical air filter, or a Short ram air intake. The power gained by this method can vary depending on how restrictive the factory airbox is. The placement of the filter is usually directly in the engine compartment. Other improved intake designs utilizes heat shields to isolate the air filter from the rest of the engine compartment, providing cooler air from the front or side of the engine bay.

Keep in mind that there are two things to remember to gain more horsepower and torque—airflow and ambient temperature. The Mercedes cold air intake performs efficiently as it is designed to do so. It should therefore be a habit to check it regularly. If busted, have it replaced in the nearest auto parts store or online for faster and more convenient purchase.

About the Author

Dwyane Thomas is a part time cook and full-time auto-enthusiast. This 31-year old Civil and Environmental graduate is a consultant at one of the engineering firms in Pennsylvania.

Bored-out 86 Yamaha FJ-1200,no airbox,4 k&n filters..BOGGS when i accellerate hard.?

I got it and it starts and idles fine but it acts like its not getting enough fuel or to much air..The Timing,plugs,vac.lines,carbs(jets,floats,tank,lines,ect) were all checked & cleaned out good.If i spray the carbs it revs great! When riding it runs good at times, then it will start bogging(feels like a fouled plug,but its not).when i get on it..I tried blocking some airflow,running fuel stright too carbs and it still boggs on accelleration..Fuel pump clicks but gas just runs out with no differance. Is it suposed too pump it from tank into carbs under pressure??please help..rev.Pat 562-708-3931

Main jets are too small for the increased airflow through the motor, so when you crack open the throttle, you get a weak mixture at the top end.
To compound the problem, until the airflow overcomes the greater inertia of the fuel you are getting a weak cut when the throttle is first opened wide.
This is why it misses for a second or so, then will pick up, albeit raggedly.

It needs rejetting or it WILL cause engine damage.

Ford Fiesta R2 comes to America
LAS VEGAS, 2 November 2010 - Ford is to make available the successful Fiesta R2 rally car in North America for the first time next year, it was announced at the Speciality Equipment Manufacturers Association (SEMA) show in Las Vegas today.

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