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Brake Handle
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The air-cooled Volkswagen Kombi is a motoring icon. It's a classic van that is chock full of character, and a lot of young guys (and girls) still aspire to own one as their daily driver. But are they getting a bit long in the tooth now to make a practical vehicle for daily use?

I drive my 1976 2 liter bay window every day, and my experience gives a good indication of what you may have to do to make your unrestored Kombi safe and comfortable to drive as your main car.

Volkswagen Kombis are well over 30 years old now and it shows. I've spent a lot of time and money over the last few years getting mine back to a reasonable condition, and if you buy a cheap Kombi you have to be prepared to do the same. Even a more expensive Kombi will most likely need some repairs and TLC.

The 1800cc and 2 liter models are the most practical because they have more get up and go than the models with smaller engines, though it does cost more to rebuild the engines.

First the upside.

Kombis are cool, they're iconic, they have character and they are definitely not boring.

They are fun to drive and when they are in good nick they are comfortable and handle well with good steering. The later model bay windows keep up with the traffic fine and can cruise on 60 mph all day, though they do slow down on bigger hills.

And they are practical. There's lots of room in a Kombi. Maybe it's not as good as a modern van because of the hump for the rear engine, but they still make a great camper or an 8 seater van with room for luggage or groceries. Ground clearance is good and the engine over the rear wheels gives good traction for a two wheel drive if you want to get off the beaten track a bit.

Now, here's what to be aware of if you plan on owning one of these as your daily driver.

Rust of course is the biggest killer of Kombis or any old car. You're much better off spending a bit more money and getting a reasonably rust free Kombi. Given that you do find a rust free Kombi though, there are still a lot of things to eat up your money before it's even practical to use your van on a daily basis.

The engine may be worn out. I rebuilt mine a couple of years ago with new barrels and pistons, all new bearings, reground crankshaft and camshaft, and rebuilt heads. The heads were converted for use with unleaded petrol at the same time. This all costs money.

The steering and suspension are safety related and have to be right.

On the suspension I've replaced the four main ball joints and the shockies. With the steering I've replaced all the tierrod ends and the main center pin. The steering damper is next on the replacement list, and that should see the steering right for my Kombi. It's always possible that yours may need a new steering box as well.

Your Kombi's brakes also need to be right. Brake linings are something that do need regular replacing, but I've also replaced the rear brake drums because they were worn beyond limits, and the front discs will need replacing next time the front brake pads are done.

I've replaced all the flexible brake hoses because they are well over thirty years old now and they do get brittle and I've replaced some of the metal brake lines because they were corroded. The rear brake cylinders were replaced a few years ago and the front brake calipers were rebuilt with new seals.

On the rear drive train there are four cv joints, and the ones on my bay window were very sad. They were replaced along with the rear wheel bearings.

One very important area to look at is the fuel lines for the engine. Kombis do burn, and it's caused by petrol spraying all over the engine. Check the fuel lines carefully and if they look old and cracked replace them with quality fuel line. Make sure that they are not rubbing on the tinware and that the pipes going into the carby and fuel pump are not loose. This is important!

As well as things that you know may need fixing, there is always the unexpected. A spray nozzle came loose from the carby in my bay window and went through the engine. It's only a small thin brass tube but it sounded as though there were marbles rattling around in the engine. Luckily there was no damage, but it did mean pulling out the engine and taking off the cylinder heads to check everything and to remove the remains of the spray nozzle. And just this week I've had to replace the alternator.

As well as mechanical wear and tear there are the cosmetics to think about. Your cheap Kombi may need a paint job, new carpets, new upholstery, and even the front seats may need attention.

On the comfort side new door seals and window seals may be needed to stop rattles and drafts. The heater may need some attention. On my Kombi the heater cables had seized. That didn't worry me until I moved from a hot part of the country to a much colder area where temperatures get below freezing in the winter.

On the plus side parts are readily available. For my Kombi, a 1976 2 liter model, I have been able to buy every part I have needed apart from the carby spray nozzles, and even then I was able to get by with parts of a different model VW.

My opinion is that despite all the repairs and restoration, Volkswagen Kombis can still be a practical daily driver. You do need to accept the fact that your purchase price is only part of the story, and that you will have to spend time and money bringing your classic Kombi back to a safe and comfortable condition.

Warren Newson is editor of the car picture site http://www.motoring-classics.com, and lawnmowercountry.com where you can find parts for your Murray lawn mower to keep your Murray mower in as new shape.

High-performance Pontiac Brake Rotor: Efficient Distributor of Brake Friction and Pressure

Who would not want a great performing car? With the recent hype in car upgrades, more and more car owners are now upgrading their cars to make it go faster, handle better and look better. When it comes to performance upgrades, the braking system is often ignored. This should not be the case, because this group of car components has an indispensable role of keeping you safe and protected on the road by providing you with safe and repeatable stopping. No matter what vehicle type you have, the concept behind the braking system is universal. The braking system installed in your Pontiac vehicle uses friction in order to slow down or stop your car. It does this through leverage or mechanical advantage and through hydraulic force multiplication. However, the entire system would not be able to perform its collective function if one or more of its sub components are not in good working condition. For this reason, you need to be aware of the various parts and their proper maintenance to ensure a longer service life.

One of the fundamental components of your braking system is the Pontiac brake rotor. This car component looks like a round metal disc and can be seen clamped by a caliper that holds 2 friction linings or brake pads. They are usually made up of basic gray crummy cast iron. To eliminate those porosities that lead to cracking, most brake rotors are vacuum degassed. A typical Pontiac brake rotor has an average roughness of 30 to 60 micro inches. Moreover, the depth of the finish must be .002 to .008 inch to ensure a smooth and high performing brake rotor. There are different types of brake rotors: the scraper slots, drilled rotors and vented rotors. Scraper slots reduce the stopping distance because they dissipate heat. Aside from that, they shed water under wet driving conditions and they effectively throw the debris and dust away from the wheels. Drilled rotors undergo blind degassing to dissipate heat and ensure maximum braking performance in any condition. Vented rotors absorb thermal energy through the vent path. That way, the heat resulting from the braking system is channeled through the moving air stream.

It is a general maintenance procedure to replace or turn the brake rotors each time the brake pads are replaced. This would allow your brake rotors to have an equal distribution of pressure and friction. Some of the basic maintenance procedures that you can employ to prolong the service life of your Pontiac brake rotor include heat cycling them very gently, keeping them cool, and working on your braking technique. By coming on your brakes progressively, smoothly and slowly, you can be sure that your Pontiac brake rotor would be spared from getting damaged earlier. You may be hearing some squealing noises when you step on the brakes. This is particularly normal, because the rotor and the brake pads are made up of metal. However, you may want to check your Pontiac brake rotor for wear and tear if you have been hearing brake noises other than a squeal. So when you have been noticing those wear and tear signs, you better replace your worn out Pontiac brake rotor to prevent brake related accidents.

About the Author

Anthony Fontanelle is a 35-year-old automotive buff who grew up in the Windy City. He does freelance work for an automotive magazine when he is not busy customizing cars in his shop.

How to fix hand brake on bike?

My bike is outdoors alot and the brake line rusted and snapped in half where the line meets a round cylinder inside the brake handle. Is there a way to fix this? (sorry in advance for the poor terminology, don't know bike parts real well)

You need a new cable. Good cables, like those that come on quality bikes, are stainless and won't rust off like your cable did.

Take it to the shop.

Chrysler convertible has usable seats for 4
Chrysler's Sebring convertible, with rear seats that can accommodate two adults and a generous trunk, languished in recent years as its manufacturer went bankrupt and was sold.

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