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When you decided to own a pet python, every detail about your pet is invaluable in making sure your pet is healthy and comfortable. Python owners, like owners of other pets, are usually keen to provide everything their pet needs.

To keep both the owner and the pet happy, in this article, I focus on the habitat of pythons and what needs to be done when they are reared as pets in an artificial environment. Many pythons suffer silently if they don't get a warm, cozy place to live in that approximates their natural habitat in a few important ways.

So how can you rear python in a friendly setting? What type of habitat should you provide? How do you get your pet to enjoy your company?

Your Python's Cage Size:

Python husbandry begins with getting a proper cage: One that is the right size, has proper lighting and ventilation, facilitates humidity and temperature control and is absolutely secure.

Choosing the right size is critical. Too small, and the animal will feel cramped. Too big, and the animal can feel stressed.

How to tell?

There are basically two types of pythons ... those that live on land, and those that live on the branches of trees.

If your python is predominantly terrestrial, the rule of thumb for its cage size is that the perimeter (distance measured all the way around the cage) should be at least TWICE the length of the snake, and the ratio of the length to width should be 3 to 2.

For example, a 5 foot (1.5 meter) python would require at least a 10 foot perimeter cage ... applying the 3: 2 ratio, that would mean a minimum cage size of 3' x 2'.

A 10 foot python would require a 20 foot perimeter ... 6' x 4' cage would be the minimum.

Complexity of the Cage:

Most Pythons do very well in a simple cage. All require a water bowl and some sort of hiding place. And the water bowl must be disinfected regularly, since the python may have unwittingly used it as a bathroom.

Material the Cage is Made From:

Cages are made of different materials like acrylic, plywood, melamine and compressed shelving board. Each has its advantages and disadvantages.

Acrylic .. strong, transparent, and light weight. Pliable and easy to clean. The only disadvantage is its higher cost

Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) and High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) also make excellent cage materials, ... but can also be very expensive.

Plywood can also be expensive, but you can select a 2nd grade material to reduce your costs.

Melamine is generally the material of choice for python owners. They are good looking, & less expensive, ...but HEAVY! (So it's kind of hard to move ... a trade-off most people are willing to live with given the lower fees).

Bedding/Substrate:

Pythons need a substrate. Newspaper is the easiest and most cost effective solution. (There are other options).

The Door:

What about the door?

You can have a transparent thick glass sliding door or opaque glassed solid door. Your choice

Keep two cages:

Ideally you would have 2 cages so that when one is cleaned, the python could be in the other one. Also ensure that your cage has a good interior coating.

Ventilation is very important:

Arrange to have near perfect ventilation for your pet cage. Good ventilation gives fresh air and lighting inside the cage, and is a strong component in keeping your python healthy and happy.

Rubber coated wire mesh is generally the most commonly chosen material. It's important to get the rubber coated variety ... the non-coated mesh will hurt your python's nose when it tries to test the boundaries of the cage

Wooden and plastic pegboards also provide good ventilating materials.

Heating:

One of the primary causes of python respiratory problems is improper cage temperature. So not only will you need heating arrangements in your cage, but you'll also need to be able to easily monitor it from outside.

The right choice of a temperature system will help your python to stay healthy. There are several commercially available options, from low cost to high cost.

Heat panels are ideal for larger snakes. They cost more, but last longer. (Make sure to monitor the temperature closely when you use them ... they are very effective).

Heat tapes are good also, but you have to be very careful to insulate the wiring, or you can electrocute your snake

Heat emitters (light bulbs that emit no light!) are good for pythons that are only active during the day ...but are used less frequently.

Heat lamps are great for arboreal pythons. When you provide them at the top of the cage it helps them relax while coiled around a branch.

Heat rocks are not really recommended because of reports of thermal burns to pythons, and sometimes electrical shocks.

Lighting:

There is still a debate about lighting the python cages. It is argued that pythons do not require any artificial lighting as most of them shy away from it.

If you're going to use lighting, though, I recommend low watt fluorescent lights for the cage. But please remember to shield ANY lighting you use ... serious injury to your pet can result otherwise.

Since your pet Python will be spending almost all the time in its cage, it's a very important to know more about 'Python Housing" as this will help you get started.

The above is an excerpt from the free newsletter on "Python Secrets" published by Geostar Publishing & Services LLC.

To subscribe to the newsletter, click on the link below:

[http://www.pythonsecrets.com]

Here's to a happier pet-owing experience!

Jessica Harrison

Geostar Publishing & Services LLC

6423, Woodbine Court,

St. Louis, Missouri,

63109, USA

[http://www.pythonsecrets.com]

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Jessica Harrison is the author of the best selling eBook "Python Secrets" published by Geostar Publishing & Services LLC.

Parrot Cages: All I Want is a Cage Somewhere

Parrot Cages

Just as parrots come in many sizes, parrot cages vary from small to large. They come in rectangles and cylinders, plain and fancy. Parrot cages can be difficult to purchase, and the savvy buyer will do research before attempting to do so. Four of the factors to be considered are given here, but you will want to discuss your final purchase with a knowledgeable dealer.

1. Parrot Breed and Size

The breed and size of your parrot figure strongly in the consideration of available parrot cages.

Large birds need sufficient space to stretch big wings, climb around, and enjoy healthy exercise. Large parrot cages are needed for parrots in the size range of African Grey Parrots, Amazons, Cockatoos, and Macaws. Large parrot cages should be made of steel or metal, and have a bar spacing of one or more inches. Any smaller spacing in large parrot cages will permit your parrot to get caught and injure itself.

Medium parrot cages are good for medium size parrots such as Caiques, Cockatiels, Conures, and Senegals. Medium parrot cages should have steel or metal bars spaced 1/2 to 5/8 inch apart. Parrot cages with larger or smaller bar spacing may allow your bird to be injured.

If you have a small parrot such as a Budgerigar (Budgie), Lovebird, or Parrotlet, you will need to look at small parrot cages. Small parrot cages also should be of steel or metal, since all parrots love to chew. Bar spacing should be 1/2 inch or less in small parrot cages.

2. Configuration

The configuration of parrot cages is the size and shape. Since parrots like to climb and fly, parrot cages need to be tall. Even the most basic, small parrot cages should be at least 7-8 inches taller than their width and depth. Dome tops are functional as well as attractive in parrot cages. The parrot will amuse itself climbing across the dome. Wide cages are important for larger parrots, as they will need to fly back and forth. While some parrot cages are built to resemble castles or Victorian homes, complete with turrets, one must be sure the décor does not involve sharp edges or small corners where a parrot can injure feet or beak.

3. Accessories

Accessories can go a long way toward making parrot cages "loverly" in the parrot's thinking. Stands raise parrot cages to a higher level, allowing the bird to see more, and feel more a part of the "flock" in your home. Stands also give owners better access to their parrots. For parrots that crave more attention, parrot cages on wheeled stands can be moved from room to room.

Parrot cages can also be topped with exercise areas, providing entertainment and exercise when the parrot is out for play. Swings, ladders, toys, steps, and more can be included in playgrounds.

The feeder cups in parrot cages should be easily accessible, and should be made of steel, ceramic, or reinforced plastic. Parrots will chew on the cups as part of their exercise, and can readily destroy other materials.

Parrot cages require at least three different perches, each made of a different material. Rope, hardwood, and cement are three possibilities. Proper perches are important to the health of your parrot's feet.

Cage covers are important additions to parrot cages, allowing your bird to get the right dark and light cycle to get sufficient rest.

4. Toys

Finally, all parrot cages will need convenient places to attach toys – and entertaining toys to be attached. Like parrot cages, parrot toys come in different sizes and materials to suit the breed of parrot. Parrot toys do not have to be elaborate. Toys may entertain, and may stimulate your bird intellectually, but their main purpose is to help parrots use the actions they would use in the wild. Toys help them "hunt" food, hide in the "leaves" of a tree, and exercise their beaks to keep them strong.

Toys in parrot cages can be for their feet, giving them foot exercise that helps them maintain dexterity. Toys may be filled with food that parrots must retrieve, chewing away obstacles as they would in the wild. Small mirrors in parrot cages allow the birds to converse with "friends" in the same tree.

Learn as much as you can about your parrot breed, and ask for appropriate toys that will meet the bird's varied needs.

Conclusion: Parrot cages are a big investment. Be sure you shop carefully.

By: Anna Hart

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My male rats pee everywhere in their 3 level cage - how do I stop that?

I bought a big aquarium (for fish) for the base of their cage system and there is a wire cage on top with a ramp to the bottom where the litter is - the rats pee everywhere on all three levels. They came from someone else and they never had "Pee" boxes - so I thought they would know the litter on the whole bottom is where they do their thing!
It gets really stinky! And of course since the bottom level is the warmest - as that is the enclosed aquarium area - that is where they want to sleep too

You don't. Rats and mice leave scent trails to find their way to and from each place they go. It 's part of their nature and breed. And don't let anyone fool you, rats make excellent pets!! Poor things get a bad rap from Hollywood. You can train them to do most any tricks you dream up. I've had 4 of them for pets. The best thing is you don't have to housebreak them in adverse weather.

Fords focused
As the final whistle blew, Gettysburg senior Kyle McGrath chucked a frustrated shot at the Haverford cage.

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