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Chassis Motor
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Importance of Routine Maintenance

Your rv furnace may be the most temperamental appliance in your rv. The ignition system can perform flawlessly and then out of the blue it can totally fail. It can run quiet and purr like a well oiled machine and then start screeching and vibrating as though it has been possessed and wants "out" of your rv. Challenges for any RV, motor home, or fifth wheel owner, and even greater challenge for the RV technician.

The solution? Simple periodic inspection of your rv furnace will go a long way in averting future problems. Just because your rv furnace runs and blows, warm air does not mean some attention may be in order. The older the rv or motor home is routine maintenance only becomes more important and if it is more than five years old your safety depends on it.

Warm beer from a poor cooling refrigerator will not kill you (its really true!) but an inadequately maintained furnace could. While there are, numerous safety features built into recreational vehicle furnaces their longevity and operating efficiency rest squarely on you, the RV owner.

Rv furnaces are referred to as forced draft furnaces and are different than the forced air furnaces in our homes in that the rv furnace utilizes a separate combustion air blower which provides a predetermined volume of air to the burner chamber to achieve ignition of the main burner. Once lit the flame is sustained by air supplied by the blower. Adequate return air then is crucial in order for the furnace to operate at proper temperature.

The blowers are a squirrel cage design.

The main furnace blower sits behind the blower shroud on which the furnace data plate is attached. (The white square at upper left portion of photo) The furnace motor is also housed here. Slightly to the right is a narrow black vertical metal separator and to the right of it is a galvanized vertical metal strip. The combustion air blower (about l 1/2" wide) is housed directly behind this.

The motor has a shaft running through the center of it with the shaft on the left side driving the main furnace blower and the shaft on the right side driving the combustion blower. Two blowers- one motor. The cylinder shaped mechanism to the right of combustion blower is the outside furnace vent. This is the design of late model forced draft furnace.

Overheating is ultimately controlled by the limit switch, which will open and shut the furnace down when overheated but the best remedy is to avert the possibility of overheating with a simple routine inspection of the furnace. Besides, a hot running furnace will only place additional stress on the combustion chamber and burner and a cracked combustion chamber can leak lethal combustion gases into the coach rather than the outside where it belongs.

Furnace Inspection Checkpoints:

#1. Check outside vents for soot

Soot is a byproduct of improper combustion, which means you have a problem. Carbon monoxide is the other byproduct of improper combustion so a furnace exhibiting soot at the outside vent should be inspected and repaired BEFORE being operated again.

#2. Check return air vents (inside coach at the furnace)

Return air vents should be free of dust and lint and should NEVER be obstructed. Remove the return air vent and inspect the case of the furnace to be sure it is clean and free of obstructions. If there is any dust on the furnace, which cannot be easily removed with a vacuum, or air indicates, it has been there for a considerable length of time and a cleaning of the entire furnace is in order. Why? Because this dust will be everywhere including the inside of the furnace. Such dust can affect electrical switches, the furnace blower, and the furnace blower motor. Eventually a dirty motor and blower will slow down and the furnace will loose efficiency and if the blower slows down enough the furnace will not operate. (Another safety feature incorporated with the sail switch)

#3 Inspect heat ducts at the furnace

Heat ducts should be inspected at the furnace first to insure they are properly secured to the furnace AND that they are not leaking. Also, check the condition of the ducting. If it is stiff and brittle, it will be prone to cracking and subsequently leaking resulting in additional operating inefficiencies of your furnace. Such ducting should be replaced.

Conclusion:

Your rv furnace is the one area in which one should not skimp. Your comfort and safety far outweigh any reasons to shortcut here and safety in and of it should mandate giving your furnace the attention it requires.

Ray a RV technician has a web site on information regarding the technical aspect of rving. He has articles to help you on batteries, electrical, holding tanks, purchasing used rv's, motor home chassis and much more. http://www.rv-motorhome-answers.com

Motor Homes

If you never owned and lived in a motor home, then the only things you know about it is that  it uses fuel, incurs all the maintenance problems of a poorly constructed house and a poorly constructed truck, clogs the highways, is impossible to park, and is tough to drive in a straight line.

That's why you always question yourself at the glance of a motor home: why do people buy them?

Having taken a deeper insight into the notion of a motor home, you will see the following:

Unlike most hotels and inns, RVs are pet-friendly. You can always travel with your dog or cat, leave it alone if you want to go for a walk, and the like.

RVs have less glass than cars, so they do not heat up as fast in the sun. There are curtains for every window, thus further reducing the greenhouse effect. RVs have deep-cycle marine batteries in addition to the engine battery. These auxiliary batteries will power a ceiling exhaust fan that can draw fresh air in through open windows.

RVs can be relatively comfortable in undeveloped parks.

There are basically three kinds of motorhomes: conversion vans (Class B), custom body on a van or pickup chassis (Class C), bus-type custom body on a truck chassis (Class A).

Within Class A you have a choice of front-engined gas or rear-engined diesel ("diesel pusher"). Diesels are more expensive, more durable, and get better fuel economy. A diesel pusher is made on a heavy duty chassis with air springs and air brakes. The diesels feel much less car-like to drive. The air brakes are unnervingly different from the hydraulic brakes on a car or gas motorhome. You have to press the gas pedal down at least 15 degrees before the engine wakes up. There is no "park" on the transmission; you put it in neutral and then set the air brake separately.

Note that even among reputable dealers price can vary enormously. There also seem to be some regional variations. For example, Campers Inn in New Hampshire quotes a price for the Sightseer that is 91% of retail. Arlington RV, in Rhode Island, may be a bit better at 87%. Bernard RV (Illinois) quotes 80%, which is a savings of $4-6000 over the New England prices, enough to make a detour to Chicago well worthwhile. Dealers in the Southwest offer similar prices to Bernard's.

If you shop by brand: top ten class A motor home manufacturers include Fleetwood RV, Gulf Stream, Winnebago Industries, Country Coach, Coachmen, Monaco Coach, Holiday Rambler, National RV, Foretravel and George Boy.

Fleetwood RV specializes in Gas and Diesel Motor Homes, as well as class C motor homes.  All the RVs offered by the manufacturer feature well-designed floor plans which make use of tall 7-foot ceilings and numerous slide-outs to create an open, roomy feeling inside; the top names in appliances, electronics and furnishings from the galley to the bedroom.

RVs are usually used to travel across the country and maybe even around with a large family and pets. Many pop stars also use RVs as a means of transportation for their in-country tours.

About the Author

i am considering buying a 1980 fleetwood tioga, with a 1979 dodge chassis what size motor does that have in it

Raise the hood and look at the front of the engine, if you see a distributor cap to your left (the trucks right), it is a big block, probably a 440. If you do not see a distributor cap, the distributor is at the rear of the engine and it is either a 318 or a 360. Their should be a sticker(s) under the hood giving information as to the engine size, spark plug type and gap, vacuum hose routing and various other info.

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