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Crankcases Crank
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Last time we talked about the two areas of the engine that affect rotation: the externals and the internals. For those new to the article series, we are talking about a seized up engine, or an engine that refuses to rotate.

What was not discussed was what are the most likely problem areas on an engine that would cause it to seize up?

First thing I would do is take two parts off the engine so that you can access the most common problem areas:

- The Blower Housing

- The Cylinder Head

(Disassembly Note: Keep all the bolts in the correct alignment and order for the cylinder head. Also take care with the head gasket to keep it in the correct alignment. Think of this as a 3-D puzzle and you are putting the sections of the puzzle aside for reassembly.)

Okay once you have gotten the cylinder head off and the blower housing off you be looking for a couple of things:

-Rusted Flywheel to the magneto

-Rusted cylinder

-Rusted main shaft to the lower bearing.

-Seized up engine due to overheating....

9 times out of 10 it is the flywheel rusted to the magneto. If this is an old engine, you will probably have points. Not to worry, just pop off the flywheel and replace the points (they are available at the local hardware store. Or is you are ambitious, just buy the conversion kit (pretty easy really) and never have to worry about points again!)

A rusted cylinder is pretty serious, but not an impossible task. The nice thing about aluminum cylinder engines is that the aluminum and rust don't bond, so you can actually break free the rusted cylinder. The way to do this is to spray the cylinder with penetrating oil and let sit for 4 to 5 hours. Put the cylinder upright so that gravity is working to pull the penetrating oil into the rusted areas.

Then gently take a piece of wood (very soft preferably pine) and place it on the top of the piston. Tap the top of the piece of wood with a hammer. This generally breaks free the frozen piston. You may discover that NO movement has occurred. There is a slight chance that the piston may be at top dead center. We are assuming it is not. (One FYI... make sure the blower cover, or the cord return mechanism is not connected. This will work against you if the piston wants to go down and force the engine to go backwards!)

The rusted main shaft, is hard to tell if that actually has occured, unless you know some of the history of the engine prior to purchase. Meaning, did the engine sit idle for 3 years outside? Was the oil reservoir full when you opened looked in?

The last question is probably the most important, because it will let you in on a couple of things prior to even BUYING the engine.

If there is not oil, then the question is: what is there in the crankcase? Water? or Nothing?

To tell if there is water, or was water, look for rust colors in the bottom of the oil fill hole. If no oil, then there will be oil residue, with lots of chunks, but not much else. There may be a little oil, but it may have run dry.

If there was water, then you may, have a rusted lower bearing, and perhaps most of the innards (though unlikely) rusted. If that is the case then disassemble the engine, by taking off the outer crank case cover.

If there was little or no oil, check the walls of the cylinder for excessive scoring. When I mean scoring I mean gouges, or scratches, or even marks that resemble melting on the cylinder walls. Gouges and scratches typically will fair okay, but a large melt mark will be trouble and will require honing, and a new oversized piston and new rings. (Just so you know, I have oversized my engines a couple of times and have had minimum success. They end up turning into mosquito abatement machines in short order...!)

You will discover that most engines are not that serious as any of the things I have discussed.

But say it is, then we need to go down each trail...

Bottom line is we do not know what is going on inside the engine, we need to take a sneak peek. The quickest way to find out something is to check the cylinder.... The second is to check the insides...that is a little more involved and will require a whole new article!

And one last FYI: If the engine was mounted to a water pump, then more than likely the engine has a rusted end bearing. If the engine has a rusted end bearing, then the internals of the engine are more than likely rusted.

Water pump engines are usually junk, and are only good for parts such as pistons, valves, carbs.

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And for those with Vertical Lawnmower Engines, there is a special section just for you! Don't throw away that vertical engine just yet!

Save Money With A DIY Oil Change

In today's economy, many people are looking to save money. One way to save money is by changing your own oil in your car. Here are the directions for a DIY oil change.

First, you will need to gather some tools and supplies. You will need an adjustable wrench, and a pan to catch the oil as it drips from the crank case of your car. Check in the owner's manual for the type of oil that is required and the filter that is needed. Additionally, you may need a filter wrench to remove the old oil filter. To be sure you get the right wrench, pick it up at the auto parts store when you purchase a new filter.

If you have drive up ramps, drive your car onto those ramps for easy access to the underside of your vehicle. Turn off your vehicle. If you have jack stands, use your car jack to lift the vehicle and place a jack stand under either front axle of the vehicle.

Place the oil collection pan so that the oil will drain from the oil pan into it. Use the adjustable wrench to remove the oil pug and allow the oil to drain from the crankcase.

Remove the oil filter, using the filter wrench if necessary.

Add a few drops of clean motor oil on the rubber gasket of the new oil filter. Screw the new filter back onto your vehicle. Once the gasket touches the motor, continue turning three-quarters of a turn.

Remove the oil collection pan from under the vehicle and replace the oil plug. If the gasket on the oil plug is damaged, replace the gasket before inserting the oil plug.

Add the recommended amount of the correct weight motor oil. Start your vehicle. The oil pressure light may stay on for a few seconds while the vehicle picks up the oil through the oil filter. If this light does not go off after thirty or forty seconds turn off your vehicle. When the light goes off, get out of the vehicle and check for any leaks. If you see any oil leaks turn off the vehicle and tighten the required part. If there are no leaks drive your vehicle off of the ramps. If you are using jack stands use your jack to carefully remove the jack stands from under the vehicle axle.

Drive your vehicle to a level location and turn off the ignition. Allow the vehicle to sit for a few minutes and then check the oil level in the crankcase. If the level is low add enough oil to bring the level back to the full mark.

While you are under the hood, follow the directions in your owners manual in order to check other fluid levels. You will nee to check the automatic transmission fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, coolant and windshield washer fluid. If any are low, be sure to fill to the proper level.

Congratulations, you have just finished your first DIY oil change.

About the Author

Annie is an expert furniture and interior design writer. Her current area of specialism is curtain pole, home office furniture and christmas gifts

I have an 05' Polaris Predator, engine oil in airbox?

Okay, I haven't ridden my Predator in a while but now everytime I go to crank it, engine oil flows through that rubber hose (maybe a breather?) and into the airbox. It seems to be a couple of oz. each time. It starts and runs fine with no smoke out of the exhaust or anything. It also seems once it's started that the oil flow through that hose stops? Does anybody know why crankcase oil would be forced through that tube and into the airbox? I'd imagine you are supposed to get a little from time to time, but this is clearly excessive.

Thankyou for any info on this topic..

CC,,I can only Guess.

Those things have a sort of Hybrid Oil Sump System,,
It's basically Wet Sump (carries oil IN the engine's crancase),,
but also has an external Oil Tank such as a Dry Sump engine would.

Sooo,You've got a substantial Volume of Oil ,,,
with the Total amount being split into 2 different reservoirs.

Most all Oil Pumps have a CHECK VALVE in the oil circuitry.
It's purpose varies depending on the type of Oil System.

Basically,,The Check Valve's function is
A)In a DRY SUMP Engine with a Remote Oil Tank holding almost ALL the Oil,,,
The Check Valve prevents Gravity from Draining the TANK's Contents into the Engine and "flooding it" with Oil.

B)In a WET SUMP engine which holds all of it's oil in the Crankcase,,,
The Valve holds the Oil Passages which go to Upper End of Engine,,,filled with Oil.
So when starting the engine after sitting a while the Oil does not have to be pumped from bottom of engine>>fill all the passages>>and THEN finally get to where it's going at extreme opposite "end" of engine.

It's a lot like keeping the oil system "Bled" of Air,,,from gravity drain back when shut down,
The valve holds it filled with oil.

I should not that those are the Primary Functions of the check valve in each respective type of oil system.

The Valve actually does a little of Both functions,,in Both type of engines
..............................................
Your Predator Does have such a Check Valve.
Because You Engine has the Hybrid Oil Sump/Tank set-up,,,
The Valve takes on another roll.
In Effect,,it controls the Balance of the Oil Level in each location.

If the Check Valve Leaks,,,not only does all the Suspended Oil drain back into Engine/Tank,,,,
It also trys to Equalize the Horizontal Level of oil in both reservoirs.

What I IMAGINE is,,,Tha One place or the Other is being "Temporarily Overfilled" after sitting shut down a while.

Upon Restart,,,it simply OverFlows until Normal Pump Suction/Discharge ratio gets things even out again after running a few minutes.

That would explain why it Stops coming out that hose once running.

The Venting of all that Goes into Airbox.
It Enters BELOW Air Filter Element,,,,
near Bottom of airbox.
So Oil can fill the box to a certain level,,,without ever coming Near the Air Intake back into Carb.
Which is how So Much Oil can be pumped from that Hose into AirBox,,,yet never produce any Smoke due to being sucked into Carb and Burned.

My Guess,,,Bad Oil Check Valve on engine.
It's serviceable/replaceable Externally.

Here's an Owner's manual.
NOTE: It also Details "Bleeding the Oil Lines"---that may be worth a try also.
It's on the Manual's page 110,,or "page 113 of 187" on the PDF Counter

http://pi54.com/corp/manuals/Owners/9919510r01.pdf

Here's a Parts Catalogue
http://pi54.com/corp/manuals/Parts/9919511.pdf

The Oil Check Valve is pictured on
"OIL FILTER" Section C-13.
PDF Doc "page counter 41 of 52"

It's Items #11 thru 14

No gaurantees,,I cannot be Certain.
But in all probability it sounds like that Check Valve to me.

Good Luck.,,,hope ya get it sorted out.

***LOOK Inside the Check valve Hole,,,for anything odd or foreign matter,,damage,etc..
It's tuff to see inside,,,but that is the Seat for the valve.
Odds are very slim You'll find any problem.
But might as well be Sure.

Thanks for visiting!