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Pipe Black
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Believe it or not, when it comes to the integrity of your home, plumbing can play a rather large role. Capable of causing a great deal more than temporary trauma, Plumbing issues can cause serious water damage. To avoid this it's a good idea to look at common plumbing problems and solutions.

Leaks are the most common plumbing issue. They are subtle Plumbing problems that develop more and more over time. Fixing a leak depends on whether it's leaky caulking, a leaky flapper in your toilet tank, or a even a leaky pipe. To fix leaky caulking you must remove the caulk, clean all of the affected areas and leaks, and apply new caulk. A worn down flapper can keep the water in your toilet from fully shutting off. Your best bet is to turn off the water and flush the toilet, so as to drain the water. Replace the flapper with one of the same size, which is easily purchased at a hardware store. To fix a leak in a pipe you need to tighten any loose mechanical joints, which may require different strategies. It's a good idea to consult a professional before attempting this on your own.

Clogging is the second most common problem. These Plumbing problems are characteristic of toilets, bathtubs, as well as floor drains. To fix a bathtub clog, try removing all hair and build up from the drain and use an effective chemical drain cleaner. If chemicals don't work you're going to need to clean the drum trap, which is much harder to do. You can access it either through a panel behind the tub or the ceiling of the room beneath it. Remove the plug from the bottom, clear any build up clogging it, and place a new gasket on the plug before putting it back. A clogged toilet is best cured with a plunger, but sometimes the clog is too severe. In which case you'll need to use a "Snake" to remove it. Floor drain clogs are usually caused by tree roots that have grown through the pipe. To fix this you'll need a "Sewer Tape", which is used to break through the clog.

As with any other problem, Plumbing problems vary in severity. Although many can be done on your own, it is always wise to seek the aid or advice on issues you are unsure of or that are too difficult for your abilities.

Melbourne Plumbers, Guardian plumbing, are the experts when it comes to solving all types of plumbing problems.

Pipe Care - Part Two: Cleaning Your Briar Pipe on a Regular Basis

Without regularly cleaning your briar pipes, they will become a sour tasting experience, and will no longer provide you with the smoking pleasure you desire. To eliminate such problems, you need to embark on a regimen of regular cleaning and maintenance for your pipes.

Tools for cleaning: Tapered pipe cleaners, bristle pipe cleaners, regular or extra fluffy pipe cleaners, pipe sweetener or grain alcohol, Shank brush or cotton swab.

Before You Light-Up: Caring for your pipes start with you very first smoke. So, if you’re a beginner, make note; Before each smoke, run a pipe cleaner through the stem to remove any ash or tobacco left behind, then gently tap your pipe, holding it by the bowl, on a cork knocker. Do not use force!

As you Smoke: While you are smoking keep the flame above the tobacco, so as not to char the rim of your pipe. If the rim of your pipes begin to darken just moisten a pipe cleaner or cotton swab with saliva and rub it. This will eliminate the dark color. If a pipe starts to have a bad taste while smoking, it is probably time for a good cleaning.

After Smoking: Before we start any cleaning remember NOT to remove the stem from a pipe while it is still warm. The stem may loosen and you can end up cracking the shank or breaking the tenon. After each smoke, you should give you pipe a thorough cleaning. Let the pipe cool down completely, and then stir up any ash and residue left at the bottom of the bowl. Cover the bowl with your fingers and shake the pipe to evenly distribute the ash along the inside walls of the bowl, which will greatly speed the formation of ‘cake’, a protective layer of carbonized tobacco and ash inside your pipe. Cake is an insulator and greatly extends the life of your pipe, guarding it against burn outs. Dispose of the remaining residue, and run a bristle pipe cleaner through the stem, repeating the process until the pipe cleaners come out clean. Blow through the stem gently to dislodge any leftover ash and wipe your pipe with a soft cloth, perhaps with a dab of your favorite Pipe polish. Place the pipe back on it’s rack or stand and allow it to rest, hopefully for two to four days before it is smoked again.

Once A Month

You should give your pipes a deep cleaning. Most smokers do it on a regular basis. Experiment with how often you should do this cleaning in time you will know what works best for you.

Extra cleaning tools: Pipe Reamer & Pick.

First, carefully remove the stem of the pipe from the bowl and lay the two pieces on a paper towel. Dip a regular pipe cleaner in alcohol and run it through the stem. It will most likely come out with some black or brown residue on it. Follow this pipe cleaner with a dry one, and repeat until the pipe cleaner comes out the same color as it went in. Run a last “dry” pipe cleaner to remove any moisture and set the stem aside. Using bristle pipe cleaners, moistened with alcohol, vigorously swab out the air-hole of the pipe, alternating with dry, regular pipe cleaners. Don’t be afraid to use a lot of pipe cleaners. Pipe cleaners are cheap, new pipes aren’t. Once your dry pipe cleaner comes out the same color as it went in, run another dry one to absorb any moisture. Using a cotton swab or shank brush, clean out the tenon, the portion of the pipe where the stem attaches to the bowl. If your stem or bowl has a band, now is the time to polish it. Carefully reinsert the stem into the bowl, and wipe it with a soft cloth with a little pipe polish . Allow your pipe to rest for a couple of days before smoking it, this way the alcohol will evaporate completely. If you have cleaned most or all of your briar pipes at once, now is a good time to smoke your meerschaums.

About the Author

Jim Bennington has been caring for briar pipes and their accessories for over 30 years. You can find him at www.bocabenningtons.com

How do you connect pvc drain pipe to the old black iron drain pipe?

This is pretty simple. It is done with a rubber coupling (pronounced 'cup-ling') that has 2 worm gear (hose) clamps. There are many companies that make these 'transition' couplings, but they are all pretty similar in design. A couple of manufacturers that I use all the time is 'Fernco' and 'Mission'.

For an example of what these couplings look like, visit www.fernco.com. From the home page, look at the left margin and click on the tab that says 'couplings & installation'. You will see 2 different images of rubber couplings that are labeled for the types of pipe they join together. There is a straight pattern coupling or a reducing pattern coupling depending on the pipe sizes that you are trying to connect. The couplings are sold in a variety of sizes to accommodate various pipe connections. You just have to know your pipe diameter for both the plastic and the cast iron. To find the sizes, look at the writing that is on the side of the pipe. It will be easy to locate on the plastic, but the cast iron is sometimes imprinted and can be hard to read because of age and corrosion. If this is the case, simply measure the inside diameter (straight across the pipe) without including the wall thickness. 3" Schedule 40 Plastic pipe for example, has an inside diameter of 3" and an outside diameter that is close to 3-1/2". Once this information is determined, you are now in business to travel to your local home improvement center or hardware store to purchase the coupling.

One other note: A typical residential main drain within a house is normally 3" pipe and sometimes 4" at the most. If this drain that you are repairing is from a fixture such as a sink, it may be 1-1/4", 1-1/2", an maybe even 2" diameter.

To install, hold the coupling next to the joint of the two pipes that you will be connecting. 'Center' the coupling next to the joint and make a mark on each pipe to be certain that you are 'splitting the difference' when installing the coupling. Loosen the 2 clamps with a 5/16" nut driver. Slide the entire coupling (and clamps) over the pipe with the smallest diameter / wall thickness by separating the two pipes. Bring the pipes back in alignment and slide the coupling over the thicker pipe until it reaches your mark (you may have to lubricate the pipe with soap, grease, etc. for ease of sliding). Carefully tighten the two clamps (by hand) and do not over-tighten, which can strip the worm-gear clamp. There is a pre-set torque wrench that is specifically designed for making such a joint, but you can achieve similar results by hand-tightening. Just be careful not to over-tighten...

Good-Luck, I hope this helps!

The black box
Photo by Marci Winters-McLaughlin. Lincoln Middle School science teacher Deb McNabney and a number of her past students circle around as Pat Ripley, now a sophomore at Edwardsville High School, pries open one of the “black boxes” of which the contents of have been a mystery for more than 10 years. McNabney promised her students she would reveal the secret contents the year that she retired. The ...

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