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Chaincase Gear
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Chaincase Gear
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Arctic Cat New OEM Snowmobile ChainCase Gear Sprocket 21T,13W,21 Tooth US $39.94
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Used 1986 Yamaha SRV 540 Chaincase Chain Case Gear Set Brake Caliper Snowmobile US $39.99
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Bardahl 6328 American Classic Gear and Chaincase Lubricant - 1.057 Quart List Price: $6.75 Sale Price: $10.97 |
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BARDAHL AMRCN CLSSC GEAR/CHAIN 6328 |
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Are you protecting your investment in your Harley Davidson motorcycle?
A few facts I'm sure you are aware of, but do you know that the standard oil plug magnetism does not work at taking metal residue out of your oil that the oil filter does not catch. These particles can cost you money and wear your engine down.
These particles are mainly created by friction and lots of it. For example an engine cruising at a speed of only 2000 rpm, propels the pistons up and down the cylinder walls 33 times per second! Astounding! Really!
It would seem a good oil and filter change would cure this problem. Sorry, particles not trapped in the engines oil filter can stay inside your engine only to contaminate your fresh oil....and the cycle repeats itself over and over....there is an answer.
How big are these particles? A fine grain of salt is 100 microns, white blood cells 28 microns, red blood cells 8 microns. The only way to remove these small, damaging metal particles is with very strong magnetism. The super drain plugs we manufacture are the strongest high temperature magnetized drain plugs available in the world. Yes, in the world.
These magnetic drain plugs are the cure for your diseased engine oil in your Harley Davidson Softail or any Harley out there old or new. Your motorcycle will last longer, giving you piece of mind and saving you money as well.
A former rocket support mechanic came upon these truths about oil contamination which I am sharing with you. I hope it helps you understand what is going on in your motorcycle's engine, transmission and your primary chain case.
Simply, my name is Willow Adams and not only do I own a Harley Davidson but I have a friend who has developed a SUPER magnetic drainplug unlike any other. I am a mother and an avid reader of Ezine articles. Finally, I've decided to write a few of my own as I have an awesome message and product that can help your Harley engine last longer. A Super magnet drainplug, pure and simple, no hype:
http://www.magnetscleanmotoroil.com
Best Synthetic Motorcycle -Oil Save Money
AMSOIL Customers Appreciate Greater MPG
Despite the fact results vary because of a variety of factors, a common denominator among AMSOIL motor oil users is an improvement in fuel economy. Independent testing reveals that AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 motor oil passes the API Energy Conservation Sequence VI test with a rating 38 percent higher than the API minimum specifications.
"In most cases it can increase mileage, but at the very least you're getting superior engine protection."
Ralph Sites, a police officer in Rustburg, Va. "I had been getting 30 miles per gallon," Sites divulged.
His first oil change to AMSOIL, improved his mileage to 38 miles per gallon. At 6,500 miles on the engine, after replacing the final drive oil with AMSOIL Series 2000 75W-90 Gear Lube, he improved to 40 miles per gallon. "I switched to AMSOIL for the long-term gain. The improved gas mileage was just a bonus.
Anybody who comes and gets the AMSOIL motor oil in their motorcycle comes back with their cars," he said.
Additionally, Lance Okeson of St. gained miles per gallon after switching to AMSOIL motor oil in his 1995 Cutlass Supreme.
Okeson made the switch after learning about AMSOIL from a customer of his at a quick lube where he works. A trip from the Twin Cities to Fargo, ND, in a steady 17 mile-per-hour wind, and back showed him an increase from 24 mpg to 30.5 mpg.
Protect your clutch, gears, valve train and other engine component's with the industry leader in motorcycle lubricants. motorcycle synthetic oil.
For you Harley Riders read on and find a better alternative the Harley's Screaming Eagle Synthetic Oil.
According to Harley-Davidson®, one of the unique asset's offered by Screamin' Eagle® Synthetic Motorcycle Oil is its versatility. For the first time the company is recommending an oil that can be used in the engines, primary chaincases and transmissions of most Harley-Davidson® motorcycles, including Evolution XL, Evolution 1340, Twin Cam 88 and 88B, Revolution and Buell models. This feature, however, is not unique.
How does Screamin' Eagle® Synthetic Motorcycle Oil measure up to AMSOIL in wear protection? Four-Ball Wear Test results indicate that AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oil still provides the best protection possible for motorcycles. In fact, Screamin' Eagle® Synthetic Motorcycle Oil leaves a wear scar nearly 80 percent larger than AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil.
Suggested retail price of Screamin' Eagle® is nearly $2 a quart higher than AMSOIL 20W-50 Motorcycle Oil.
Harley-Davidson® claims Screamin' Eagle® Synthetic Motorcycle Oil has been "exclusively designed" for use in their motorcycles, pointing to across the boardbench testing and over 230,000 miles of durability testing to back it up. AMSOIL INC. has 30 years of experience providing superior lubricating protection for all brands of motorcycles, and AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oils have been tested in millions of over-the-road miles. Appreciationfrom countless motorcyclists further demonstrate the superiority of AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oils.
Composewith top-of-the-line synthetic base stocks and high-temperature deposit control additives, AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oils provide superior protection and performance for motorcycles in all operating conditions. AMSOIL Motorcycle Oils effectively withstand oxidation and thermal degradation, keep wear to an absolute minimum, hold contaminants in suspension and keep engines running cool and clean.motorcycle synthetic oil
About the Author
Studied wear and tear on both motorcycles and vehicles using regular and synthetic lubricants.
Are circa 1970's Bonneville T140 V left and right gearchange engines interchangeable?
In 1976 Triumph changed from right to left gearchange on their T 140 V Bonnevilles.As I understand it, the method they used was simply to run a shaft across from the left primary chaincase to the gearbox internally,therefore the engine/gear box units are interchangeable provided that you have the relevant primary chaincases and gearbox covers.Any body out there done this conversion?
Hello Greeves,
I'm not 100% absolute certain on this .
I worked in a Triumph shop for many years and owned many.
But,I got away from them in '75 as an occupation.
The L/H shift configuration was done exatly as you stated.
There was no major re-engineering.
To convert an Old R/H shift to L/H config could actually be done by any competent mechanic/engine machine shop.
To Convert "New" L/H Shift back to Old R/H,,You'd need
*Primary Cover....(or plug the shift shaft hole)
*Old Style R/h Shift Shaft
*Old style R/H Outer Gearbox Cover & gasket
*Inner GearBox Gasket
*???I dont know if the Shift Levers/Foot Levers are interchangeable or not.
Most likely they ARE,except pinch bolt would be "upside down".
Worst-Case,,,add a R/H shift lever
+ Plug the Shift shaft Thru-Hole in l/h engine case,,some gearbox oil,,a
With the exception of having to "creatively" plug the shaft's Thru Hole in R/HCrankcase.....
It's all a Direct Interchange of Parts,,Replace the "New" with "Old"
The entire rest of the Engine/Gearbox unit is all the same,,far as I know.
All the Unit 650/750 Twins are basically interchangeable from '63 Forward.
Many,Many of the parts from them are even interchangeable back to the Pre-'63 Non-Units.
The Position of the Shift Shaft/Foor lever on Either Configuration ,,,in it's relation to Chassis ,Footpegs,and whatever else,,
It's such that there's No Interference or other considerations.
Some motorcycles have engines mounted in a way that a Shifter Swap such as this,,,would bump into something on Other side.
If Each respesctive "set of parts" were maintained as a sort of "Kit",,,
The Bike could be converted back & forth at will.
Which could be "valuable" to Resale.
The only actual "Modification" done is plugging the Engine Case hole,,,which could be done in a number of quite effective but "NON-permanent " ways.
I would NOT permanently Expoxy a Plug in-place,for example.
I'm not 100% certain that ALL the "Old"R/H shift shafts are the same.
Up till the last 5speeds that I messed with in mid '70's,,they were all the same.
I cannot imagine any change,,and doubt there was any change for '76 L/H conversion( other than to accomodate the Thru Shaft,of course)
The whole set-up could even be modified with some Minor machine work to have a shift lever on BOTH sides.
A Hybrid,,and user-selectable by simply re-positioning the Foot Lever to side-of-choice.
The Modification would be to "merely" Mod the R/H shift Shaft's Inner End to receive the L/H Shaft.
I never Tried it or investigated such a conversion....
But I do know that the Basic requirement is Simply a SLOT milled across shaft's end to accept the crossover shaft's spade-drive connection.
A Glorified "Flat Blade Screwdriver-meets-Screw Slot" type of configuration.
The only hitch would be a Possible LENGTH difference,,requireing one piece or the other to be extended.
Maybe,,maybe not??
I only mention that as a Possibility,,,if such a mod were desireable to anyone for any reason,,
It would quite feasible and rather simple.
An average "home mechanic" could do the entire Retrofit job.
It's straightforward and simple.
One potential Glitch---reaching the HOLE to plug it,,which should not be a prob,,,It SHOULD be easy even with the gearbox works all in place.
Or,,pluggable from Primary Side.
One "TricK",,,is that Those Gearboxes demand the Shift Quadrant be set in a Certain Position while the Shift lever is maintained in a certain position ,,as the Inner Cover is slipped on and the 2 Gear Shift mechanisms Mesh.
Their Engagement requires a certain Mesh.
To Recap:
** Any Unit-Construction engine will swap Directly into Any Unit-Construction Frame
--Only significant differences are Crankcase Breather hose,and ----Cyl Head/Rocker Box Engine Mounting aka "Head Steady".
A Gazillion Triumphs have NO such mount installed.
_There's a rare few differences in Alternator Wiring,,all are easily adaptable---(the One exception is the '67's "ET Magneto" requiring ET Ign Coils---a SCARCE setup)
***L/H to R/H Shifter Conversion is simply a Parts Retrofit.
Only necessary "Modification" is plugging the Hole in Engine Case on Primary Side
Such a Conversion would be Readily Reversible back to Absolute,100% Original
***Old R/H to L/H COULD be done by Installing L/H Parts.
A "Permanent Modification" Necessary would be drilling the Thru Hole in l/h crankcase.
This Conversion would be readily Reversible to Original.
But the Added Hole would remain---however,,it's located in a place where it would be "externally INVISIBLE" on an assembled Motorcycle.
*** A "Quick-Change" Hybrid could be Fabricated with appropriate parts selection & combination,,,,and some simple, Moderate Machine Shop work to Connect the 2 shift Shafts
This setup too ,would be Readily Reversible back to Original Config by simply replacing the Type-specific parts.
The one "permanent MOD" would be the "HOLE" necessarily Added to a Pre-'76/R/H shift Engine Case
I can't imagine any good reason for doing such a thing,,but it IS
Do-able relatively easy & inexpensively without any horrible permanent disfiguration of the bike
Hope any of that helps
Thanks for visiting!

US $2.99

