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Yamaha Viper
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The Dirt Bikes are the fastest dirt fighters on road. Also known as Trails Bikes, these roadrunners are extremely light in weight and are perfectly constructed for unpaved, cross country, rough or uneven terrains.

To meet the purpose, Dirt motorcycle is provided with rugged tires and suspension. Their engine power is smaller in comparison to typical street bikes, ranging less than 500cc. With two-stroke and four-stroke engines, the bike is an epitome of power on road.

Dirt motorcycle comes in several varieties and the most popular are those, which are manufactured by leading companies like KTM, Yamaha, Suzuki, Honda, Kawasaki, Husqvarna and Husaberg. Dirt motor bikes are in most cases meant to run on rough tracks and are just suitable for off-road competitions such as Motorcross. Most Dirt products manufactured by the well-known companies are light and well-built with knobby tires for utmost grip and balance.

What makes a Dirt Bike different from a common street bike?

It is the suspension, which creates the distinction. Moreover, the Knobbies or deep treads on the tires of Dirt motor bikes provide a better traction through sand, dirt, mud or gravel. The level of the engine is a bit higher which successfully hinders several ground obstructions like rocks and boulders. Moreover, the gas tank of the bike has been carefully set up in the middle portion of the bike for superior balance.

It is significant for you to know that the US Department of Motor Vehicles once every year registers a green sticker for Dirt motor bikes since the bikes do not have license plates. Moreover, bikes of the Dirt variety are not meant for city streets because they mainly run on off-road tracks.

Like other bike varieties, when you purchase a Dirt bicycle, you do expect longevity and superior performance. At the same time, you should keep in mind that anything material lasts only long when properly maintained and preserved. The same goes with dirt bicycles.

Do not feel contented if the brake pads look good, for good looks are often deceiving. The pads are often contaminated with dirt, soap and other chemical impurities. This causes considerable deterioration in the friction material of the pad. Therefore, from time-to-time replacement of the pads is absolutely essential. The other parts of the Dirt motorbike that require periodical care and checking include the engine of the bike which can be either four-stroke or two-stroke engine, the tires of the bike along with cables, chain and sprockets, linkage bearing, throttle and axles.

The leading manufacturers of Dirt bikes have recently flooded the market with exclusive bike models. Therefore, more and more both professionals and novices are trying their best to get hold of the best possible models for a comfortable ride.

The other variety, the kid's mini Dirt motorcycle, is also quite in demand. These minis have all the parts of regular sized Dirts. It is only that they appear smaller and weigh much less for the kid's to handle. Though this specific bike comes in a miniature form, it is in no way child's play stuff. The machine should be only handled by those with sense of responsibility and those having a proper knowledge about the pros and cons of this machine.

So now it is time for you to choose your own Dirt bike and enjoy the ride.

Robert Sheehan is a freelance writer and co-owner of

http://www.bicycles-are-us.com Visit Robert And

read more about bicycles at

http://www.bicycles-are-us.com/Dirt-Bikes.html

Lighter rollers = better acceleration, heavier rollers = higher top speed?

In the shop we are asked on an almost daily basis for lighter than standard rollers for improved acceleration or heavier rollers for higher top speed. There is widespread belief that rollers are a compromise whereby the rider can choose between higher acceleration at the expensive of some loss of top speed, or higher top speed at the expense of some acceleration. This therefore implies that there are no actually 'correct' rollers for a specific bike, and the best choice of rollers is ultimately down to user preference.

But is there actually any truth to this ?

First of all we need to consider powerbands. All engines make their maximum power at a specific rpm. The further you are away from this rpm the less power your engine is developing at that moment. As you tune an engine to develop more power the power increases but the peak power tends to occur at a higher rpm and tends to drop off much more quickly as the engine speed moves above or below this rpm, this is what's known as a narrow powerband.
A 2-stroke motocross bike is a good example of a narrow powerband engine, they normally have 6 close ratio gears to allow you to keep the bike revving highly all the time and to remain as close as possible to the rpm where all the power is developed. Because the powerband is so narrow there is virtually no power at lows revs and you have to work the bike to keep the revs within the narrow powerband all the time.

Similarly if you fit a power pipe to a ped without changing the rollers the bike at first seems slower because although the engine now has a higher power output the cost of this is that it occurs at higher revs and the powerband has narrowed. So whilst your bike might have developed enough power to happily pull away at 6500rpms with the standard pipe, the tuned and now more powerful bike with the pipe fitted actually develops less hp at 6500rpm than it did with the standard pipe and it struggles to pull away.

Because the engine only actually develops peak power at one specific rpm a geared bike or car is virtually never utilising it's peak power, it's only actually achieved for a brief moment as the revs pass through peak power rpm whilst accelerating. The best compromise for maximum *useable* power is to manage the gearing so as the engine can be kept as close as possible around this rpm for as long as possible.

Even a standard moped is actually in quite a high state of tune and already has a narrow powerband. A 1.0 litre car developing 50hp actually only develops half of the power per litre that a 50cc moped does producing 5hp.

To keep the moped within it's narrow powerband it uses a variator system. The idea is that if you know at what rpm the engine develops its maximum power, the variator system can be tuned to keep the engine at that specific rpm all the time meaning that peak power is available immediately and continuously at any time you mash the throttle.

So back on topic...
Ok, we all know that lighter rollers allow your engine to rev harder and vice versa, and that if the variator is working well it should hold the engine at a constant rpm dictated largely by the weight of the rollers.

But how does this effect top speed? It actually doesn't. Roller weight doesn't have any effect on top speed (except in unusual circumstances)

It's important to realise that the variator can only hold the rpm constant until it has adjusted itself all the way out, as soon as the road speed is reached at which the variator can no longer keep changing out the transmission becomes fixed gearing.

The printout below shows a Yamaha Aerox, pretty much standard with a Viper pipe and Polini variator fitted. The only difference between the graphs is that each run up is done with different weight rollers- 3.5g (blue line), 5g (red) and 6.5g (green).

If you look at point 'A' on each of the runs this shows the point at which the variator can no longer change the gearing (to keep the rpm constant) for each roller weight. As soon as this point is reached the gearing becomes 'fixed linear' meaning that the only way the speed can increase is if the engine rpm's are also increased in direct proportion. At line B on the printout the variator has fully changed all the way out for all the different roller weights and from this point on the engine rpm will always be the same relating to the road speed and consequently the power developed will be the same and so will the ultimate top speed.

After point B the engine rpms simply continue to increase for all examples until the power drops away as we move further and further away from peak power rpm until it no longer has enough power to accelerate further - this occurs at 60.5mph for all roller weights on our printout when the power developed by the engine has dropped to 3hp.

Having established that roller weight has no effect on top speed it becomes clear that there is only really one ideal roller weight for a specific bike when tuning for both acceleration and top speed. In a later article we'll discuss finding it and general variator tuning in more depth.

It's worth noting that the Polini variator is a vast improvement on the standard Aerox one which is particularly poor on even a mildly tuned Aerox. It's able to keep to revs constant far more uniformly meaning the engine is utilising it's available power much better and it's able to adjust out to a higher gearing than the standard one often meaning a significantly higher top speed even without a gear kit.

Note: there are special circumstances where the above information can be disputed, but it can be considered reliable for general use and road peds.

Pedparts UK

About the Author

Andy is the writer and webmaster of http://www.pedparts.co.uk a distributor of moped parts & accessories dedicated to offering excellent and reliable customer service.

What guitar should i get as im a newbie?

Hiya i want to start to learn to play the guitar more for a hobbie than anything else, I've never played a guitar or been that musical in my life but feel its time to change that, i've seen some good guitar packs for about £175-£199 what would be the best.....
The Epiphone Les Paul Special 2
Yamaha Pacifica PAC012 Electric Guitar
Epiphone SG Special Player
WASHBURN X20
ESP Ltd Viper

thanks for your help...
P.S what better books or DVDs for teaching yourself

Hi - that looks like a great list of possibles there, I wish I could have afforded one of that lot when I first started ( I had to make do with an Encore - it did the job though!)

I'd agree with the guy who said avoid starter packs - I believe them to be a bit of a waste of money. When first starting out you dont really need to spend a lot, you just need something thats easy to play and looks quite cool (this helps keep the interest when you are getting frustrated with your slow, un-flexible fingers!!).

You mentioned a Yamaha Pacifica - and that would be my choice. They are very easy guitars to play and I think they look quite cool (especially with a natural finish). From what I remember, you can pick one up for under £150! Its supposedly the best selling budget guitar in the world, so they must be doing something right. They sound pretty good for the price too.

Now I know that you probably want an amp with that - but trust me, the little 10 watt practice amps that come in a starter pack arent worth the bother! Just spend your other £50 quid on a multi-fx pedal like a zoom 505mkII or Digitech RP (ebay always has loads), you can plug these into the back of your stereo and it'll sound a million times better than a 10 watt starter amp. You can also plug your headphones into them - which your mum/spouse/neighbour will appreciate (theyre bound to get fed up of hearing smoke on the water over and over again!!). The FX in these things will also help keep you interested - and in tune!!

Hope that helps!

Police Blotter 7/28/10
Wilkes-Barre City's Viper Unit reported the following arrests for July: Miles Bannister, 20, was stopped on North Empire Street and found to be driving without a valid driver's license.

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